"The land of romantics dreams, unbelievable wealth
and awful destitution, luxury and poverty, palaces and huts, hunger and
plague, spirits and giants, Aladdin's lamps, tigers and elephants,
cobras and jungles; the country of hundreds of peoples and languages,
thousands of religions and two millions of gods.."
At the time of the Moghuls, Agra was the capital of India and
much of its superb architecture, which includes the Taj Mahal and the
enormous Agra Fort, dates from this era. Apart from its smattering of
imposing Moghul monuments, Agra is like many other northern Indian
cities, with a large cantonment, bustling bazaars, predatory rickshaw
riders and persistent guides in temper-fraying profusion.